I wanted to go to North Korea but not on this trip. I couldn’t enter from South Korea, and the real reason was that I didn’t have enough gold bars to pay for the expensive tour lol. Some would argue why even go there since South and North Korea are technically still at war. However, understanding their world, which is so different from the rest of us, would provide a unique perspective. But for now, DMZ/JSA was the closest I could get to North Korean soil. It may just be a blue building, but it is brimming with history and it is the most heavily guarded border in the world where the two divided regions can only meet.
Initially, I thought I wouldn’t be able to go since the tours have limited schedules and are often canceled due to military exercises and whatnot. Almost all travel agencies were fully booked on my preferred date. Fortunately, the last one I contacted had a slot for the Panmunjom Joint Security Area (JSA) Tour – exactly what I wanted. Yay! The tour was restrictive but highly informative. Good thing our guide had a sense of humor, it made the tour seem less serious.
Our first stop was at Imjingak Park. We were given some time to walk around the area by ourselves.
Then we headed to the blue building – Joint Security Area (JSA).
Aside from the blue building, there are two significant structures facing each other:
- Panmon Hall on the North Korean side of the JSA.
- Freedom House on the South Korean side of the JSA.
These buildings face each other across the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), symbolizing the division and ongoing tensions between North and South Korea.
Some interesting things I learned:
- South Korean men serve in the military for 18-22 months, depending on the service type. While North Koreans spend 10 years of their life in service!
- The smartest, most talented, and multi-lingual South Koreans get assigned to JSA
- There are exemptions from mandatory military service – such as medical reasons and giving up Korean citizenship. Our guide from Seoul was exempted because he was the only son and he had to take care of his dad
- The Philippines played a significant role in the Korean War. We were the first Asian country to send troops to help South Korea
- Panmunjom Axe Murder Incident (Kinda long story, you may google it 😅)
- Both sides have used large speakers to spread propaganda across their borders. And yes, South Korea plays KPop music!
- Choco Pie is the most coveted snack in North Korea. Somewhere across the border, South Korean companies hired thousands of North Korean workers and gave them Choco pies as part of their compensation because they were banned from paying cash bonuses and overtime. North Korean workers were supposed to eat the snacks to sustain them throughout the day, however, they were taking them home to their families and some sold the Choco pies on the black market for a ridiculous price!
The atmosphere during the tour was indeed tense. But was the tour scary? A little. Before entering the area, we had to sign a waiver that clearly stated:
There were several checkpoints and passport checks. We were only allowed to take photos when instructed to do so. We couldn’t wander freely or make any gestures towards North Korean soldiers. We only stayed inside the conference room for a few minutes. We had to form a line when entering and exiting the building.
I felt like I had to think about my every move. And I always had to listen and depend on our guide. My overthinking mind had played different scenarios in my head “What if someone defected. What happens if war suddenly breaks out while we are inside the building?”. Yep, I’m that paranoid😅
Other than that, it was perfectly safe. But one thing caught my attention: the soldiers in JSA had unbelievably clear skin! Like glass! They were glowing for real! I had my glasses on so I couldn’t be wrong! And besides, a fellow tourist also noticed it! I couldn’t help but wonder if they still had time to follow the 10-step Korean skincare routine, or if they were just blessed with such skin! If not for their veins, I would assume they were mannequins lol.
I look forward to the day when I’ll have the chance to explore North Korea, a place rich with history and shrouded in mystery.
