Crossing by land into Bolivia would have been effortless if only I had arrived during office hours (details in Argentina post). The officers didn’t bother checking my bag. They were pursuing the locals going into Argentina, as smuggling of coca leaves was rampant in this northwestern part of the border. They turned bags inside out!
Bolivia is one of the largest producers of coca leaves in the world. Coca acts as a mild stimulant: it can be chewed or in the form of tea. It suppresses hunger and fatigue and helps overcome altitude sickness. Coca is not synonymous with cocaine, but cocaine can be extracted from the coca leaf.. it is actually the primary ingredient.Â
Quick backstory..Â
While on tour in Argentina, our guide explained that the consumption of coca is legal there. It is ingrained in their culture, just like other Andean Regions of South America. True enough, you can easily spot locals with balled-up leaves on one side of their cheeks. However, it is illegal to grow and import (without proper authorization)Â mainly because of its use in cocaine. After having said that, she pulled out a plastic bag full of coca leaves to prepare us for our ascent to one of the highest points in Salta. I took 2-3 leaves and rolled them together. I held it with my fingers, sniffed it, and contemplated for a minute. I breathed deeply and had a small bite. I didn’t dare to chew the whole thing like locals would. It was alright, though I would prefer the tea version. It probably worked. I had no issues whatsoever during my trip. Or maybe I was already acclimated to the altitude. It was hard to tell. But clearly, consuming coca leaves didn’t hurt. So yeah, the smuggling of coca leaves from Bolivia to Argentina was very real.
Going back..Â
As soon as I got the exit stamp from Argentina and at the same time an entry receipt to Bolivia, I crossed my fingers (and toes), hoping that the string of misadventures had finally ended.
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But before everything else, I needed Bolivianos (their currency). I didn’t sleep properly because of Bon Jovi (see Argentina post), so I badly wanted to reach my accommodation as fast as possible. There were many Casas de Cambio (money changers) in the street. But my energy was running low to check or compare the rates, so I settled on the first one just outside the border to exchange the remaining Argentinian dollars I had. It was a smooth process, maybe because I didn’t ask any questions and just accepted whatever the rate was. As the saying goes, what you don’t know won’t kill you lol.
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Uyuni was my first destination. Yes! The spell-binding Salt Flats. I wanted to do the reverse and end the trip in Chile but getting a Chilean visa was a pain, they were even requesting for a medical check. I wouldn’t make it on time, so I decided not to continue with my application. A detour to Argentina came into the picture, as I had to make my way back to Peru via Bolivia.
From the border town of Villazon, I knew I needed to get to the collectivo (van or UV Express in the Philippines) terminal. It was not that far, like a 10-15 min walk, but I had a backpack, obviously a no for me, so I hailed a cab. As we got closer, I could already hear the barkers with their amusing tone of voice (had LSS (Last Song Syndrome) from âAtocha Atocha veinteâ lol). After I got off, a woman swiftly approached me, asked where I intended to go, and led me to the collectivo that goes to my destination. I peeked through the open door. There was only one seat left. It looked comfortable enough so I handed her my payment and got in. The driver immediately turned on the engine, and off we went. It was a short ride to Tupiza, where I would take the bus to Uyuni.
At the bus station, there were several counters. The routes were handwritten on white paper and plastered beside the windows. I inquired at the first one. There was a bus leaving in about 30 mins. Perfect! After getting the ticket, I walked around the area to pass the time. It was a quiet town. I spotted lolitas walking the streets. Apparently, there were quite a few pizza parlors in the area (are they becoming a tourist destination now?). I wanted to eat but I was worried about missing my bus, so I returned with an empty stomach (my large intestine hadnât eaten my small intestine yet, so I was still fine đ ).
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Outside the station, there was an air-conditioned bus that started boarding passengers. Nice! It would be a decent ride again (just like the bus from Argentina, minus Bon Jovi lol). Unfortunately, my assumption was wrong, it was not my bus! I looked farther, and there was another, a very old and worn-out bus. I should’ve asked and checked the other counters to know what buses they offer, but what do I know đ€·ââïž. This was not a usual route to Uyuni, so there were only a few passengers, all locals. Or maybe the tourists were on the air-conditioned bus lol. I got myself a window seat in the second row. A couple of minutes passed, and a local sat next to me. If there was any consolation, at least there was a dusty curtain I could use to block the scorching rays.
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Not long after we departed, the scenery began to reveal its splendor. My tiredness and sleepiness quickly dissipated. The views were just breathtaking, you wouldnât want to miss them. And also because of the squeaking noise on the bus and the howling wind coming through the window lol. I stared outside, eyes wide open, taking in all the sights I could never have imagined. I was lost for words. I only expected to see the salt flats and some mountains. But wait, there’s a lot more! Iceland is not alone with its otherworldly landscape. The ever-changing scenery from China to Mongolia to Russia? Bolivia has it all. Colored Mountains? Check! Grand Canyon? Yep (even if I havenât been there lol). Deserts and Sand Dunes. Flat green lands. Snow-capped mountains. Rolling hills. It seems that all the landscapes in the world are all rolled into one (like SM in the Philippines with their slogan âwe’ve got it all for youâ lol). But what I witnessed was just a tiny bit of this amazing country. Every moment of the journey left me in a constant state of awe. I could hardly put my phone away as there was a staggering beauty one after the other. The landscape show lasted for about 30 mins. I eventually stopped recording because my hands had already numbed and it was a bumpy ride (I didnât have a gimbal, and my phone didnât have stabilization, and I just wanted to emote like those in MTVs đ).
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It took about 7 hrs to reach Uyuni, yet another quiet town. My cash reserves started to dwindle, because I only exchanged my Argentinian dollars which only covered my transportation and accommodation. After checking into the hostel and finally feeding my growling tummy lol, I went out to look for an ATM. I always used my BPI debit card to withdraw and never had problems with it. But for some reason, it didn’t work in Bolivia. The machine was asking for a 6 digit PIN. Mine was 4 digits at the time. I tried other ATMs, but none of them worked. My hyperactive brain already created different scenarios like going to Western Union, getting cash from my credit card, etc. Then I realized I had my UnionBank debit card, which I rarely use. I went back to the hostel (for the WiFi) so I could transfer funds. Fortunately, it worked in Banco Union! Whew! I was spared from another headache. At least now, BPI debit card has a 6 digit PIN.
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Now that I was fully loaded with Bolivianos, I was ready to book a tour of the Salt Flats. I didn’t have to look hard. There was a tour operator just across the street, specifically for Asians!. I was happy and excited to meet a kababayan (countrymen). They had several offers that I had to think about, considering my plans and what would be the most appealing. I ended up choosing the night tour. They said that a portion of the salt flats (that day) was covered by water. Perfect for those mirror-like shots! And the chance to gaze at the stars would be a bonus.
While I waited for our departure, I decided to stay in their office. I sat down in a wooden chair. My eyes scanned the walls filled with photos of people and the beautiful landscapes. Meanwhile, there were 2 Asians who knocked and opened the door. Definitely not kababayans . A few minutes later, another group arrived. We were now complete: 2 Japanese, 3 HongKongers, 1 Međ„č.
We boarded the SUV that was parked outside. Since I was alone, I got the front seat. One of the perks of traveling alone lol. Obviously, they wanted to sit next to each other in the back. I thought we were good to go, but we stopped at what looked like a residential compound. The driver got off and opened the steel door to let us in. We followed him until we reached a room full of rubber boots. Not surprisingly, I couldn’t find my size, so I had to ask for assistance while everyone in the group was busy trying different sizes and designs. We then left our shoes and returned to the SUV, flaunting our boots (without fur lol).
The Salt Flats was not too far from the hostel. Everyone was excited to get off at the sight of a blank canvas. Each group had easily located their spot. I bet their minds were exploding with ideas to get those Instagram-worthy shots. The HongKongers were so prepared, they had props! A red balloon, colorful scarves, and some sticks with ribbons. The joy on their faces was radiating from afar. While they were all brainstorming for their first pose, I was still in the SUV, trying to figure out how to set up my gorilla pod.
The ground was uneven because of the chunks of hardened salt so I struggled to adjust the legs. I set the timer on my camera and tiptoed away from it so that the reflection on the water wouldn’t get too rippled. Definitely a con of traveling solo. Thankfully, the 2 Japanese guys were already done with their photoshoot so I asked for a favor. Hihi! (because I was shy, I only had a few photos). The driver/guide gave us a good amount of time for ourselves before we did our group photos. He then instructed us on what to do, and we obediently followed. Some of them were challenging, like the ones where we had to stand on a chair (I was terrible with balance!) and connect with each other (I have short arms!). No one was harmed, by the way đ .
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As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky shifted from bright blue to shades of orange and pink, eventually fading into darkness. The moon ascended, full and radiant (but that meant the Milky Way wont be visible), while stars emerged, illuminating the night sky with their brilliance. It was cold now. The white landscape felt like a giant outdoor skating rink! I couldnât take my hands out to take photos, so I gave my camera to our driver/guide. We had one last round of photoshoots with the celestial heavens as our backdrop. I remember spending the night in the middle of the Gobi Desert. The endless bed of salt and the infinite sky make it easy to wash away your thoughts and forget everything else, like a sweet escape from the outside world. It fills you with different emotions â happiness, contentment, peace, and a sense of wonder.
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When I got back to the hostel, my heart was full. I only had one roommate from New Zealand. I met her after I checked in, and she actually invited me to join her tour of the Salt Flats. However, I had already seen the Asian Tour, so I had to say no and chose the latter. Now it got me thinking, maybe her tour was more fun because she wasn’t back yet đ€.
My experience in Bolivia was good so far, until I went to the shower and found that the heater was broken (I havenât discovered Wim Hof at that time yet, so đ€ lol)
I had nothing planned the next day, so I hit snooze a thousand times. Got my well-deserved sleep and rest. It was noon when I decided to get up. I checked out, left my bag in the hostel, had late lunch, and just walked around Uyuni to pass the time. There were areas that looked like a zombieland (because there were no people!), and some with not so many people. I needed to stock up on Bolivianos again so I sought out my trusted bank. The one I found had a long line- must be their payday. With no other options and time to spare, I joined the queue. It was a smooth transaction, thanks again UB!
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While wandering around, I noticed several sculptures made from scraps and some other stuff displayed on the streets. It felt like strolling through a small museum. I went to the bus station early, though it was more of a small office with the bus parked outside.Â
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We departed on time and it was a pleasant ride. No loud music or TV and the lights were off. It was still dark when we reached La Paz (another instance when I was hoping for a delay or traffic so there would be sunrise already lol). We got dropped off on the street, as there was no official terminal or station, or maybe that was it. I felt uneasy about being alone in that place, so I took one of the cabs waiting for passengers and gave the driver my hostel’s address. It was a short ride. However, there was something off on Google Maps. It said we had already arrived, but it was just walls. There was no sign of a hostel. The driver stopped the car while I tried calling the hostel, but no one answered (roaming charges almost got me lol!). The meter was running, and there was nowhere else to go. We were exactly on the pin. I decided to get off and search for it myself, alone in the dark. I walked back just before we turned left, and there it was. Toinks! đ
It was a pretty capsule hostel. I never thought I’d experience this kind of accommodation, especially in Bolivia. Sorry Japan! It was cozy. Ideal for introverts or those seeking solitude lol. The mirror lighting was also a nice touch (had to take a âwoke up like thisâ selfie đ)
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After unwinding in my little cocoon, I ventured out to see the wonders of La Paz:
- Red-brick houses enveloped the jagged mountains and hills.
- Lolitas everywhere with their colorful outfits. I wanted to witness a Lolita wrestling match. Unfortunately, it was only scheduled once a week, so I missed it.
- Valle de La Luna. In the city center, you just go to the side of the road, look for a collectivo or van going to Mallasa, flag it, and hop on. I think it was about a 30 min ride, with all the traffic and stops. It was a quick day trip. Valle de La Luna, or Moon Valley, is known for its unique clay and sandstone formations created by erosion centuries ago. As the name implies, it resembles an extraterrestrial landscape. There were trails in the area with railings so it was easy to explore, but there were narrow and uneven paths so you have to be careful. Otherwise, you might fall into the deadly spires. On my way back, I thought I was in a school van as the passengers were all kids (oh hello classmates lol). It was so full I had to sit on like a wooden thing at the back of the driverâs seat. I was facing my classmates, watching their free and innocent spirits as they gazed out the window.
- Some areas in La Paz look like Quiapo or Recto (a place in the Philippines) because of the DVDs, books, and other stuff lol
- Teleferico. An urban aerial cable car transit system. They are like Skittles floating through the cotton candy sky! They were made for locals, not tourists. It was their solution to traffic, especially because La Paz is in the mountains – it’s actually the highest capital city in the world! Impressive. Fast. Efficient. Sustainable. Easy to navigate. Clean. The cars and stations are color-coded. I transferred from one color to another. Iâve tried the blue, yellow, light blue, silver, and red lines. It was like in Moscow and St. Petersburg, where I did my own tour of their metro system lol. I guess it is the only cable car in the world where you don’t have to spend a lot of money to see stunning views from the top – mountains, hills, football fields, markets, colorful houses, and sadly, poverty as well. There were only a few people when I was there, but the city is densely populated so I wonder what the situation would be like during rush hour? I hope itâs not so bad as many cable cars run frequently.
- El Alto, adjacent to La Paz, also holds the title of being the highest city in the world. Another highlight that I missed was the bustling market, which takes place only on Thursdays and Sundays. Itâs known as the most vibrant market in Bolivia, with vendors selling various goods, from fresh produce, clothes, cellphones, handmade crafts, car parts, some treasures, and other things you wouldn’t even think of. There were warnings about pickpockets, which I think are common in markets everywhere.
- Cementerio General. I donât like visiting cemeteries, but this one is worth the trip. Itâs like a labyrinth with rows of stacked graves apartment-style. I only went to see a few which was enough for me to appreciate Bolivian customs and culture. Most tombs are adorned with flowers, food, sodas (mostly Coke lol), figurines, trinkets, miniature thingies, toys, and photos of the deceased. They are enclosed with glass doors, creating like a window into their past lives, each with an interesting story to tell. There are also those pavilions and mausoleums that are obviously for the rich and famous. It was creepy but poignantly beautiful. Itâs one of those places where Iâd prefer having a tour guide to learn more about it.
- Santa Cruz and Linares. Cobblestone streets filled with shops selling tourist stuff and local items. This is where I bought my souvenirs and presents for my friends (pasalubongs). Whatâs interesting here is the Witchesâ Market (Mercado de las Brujas). As soon as you pass by, youâll catch the scent of various herbs and it may start to feel a bit eerie. Dead llamas hang in the doorway, and youâll find wooden sculptures, potions, charms, and whatnot.
- Plaza San Francisco. It is the main square in the city. Very lively and illuminated at night. Dance performers could be found in every corner, drawing crowds of people. It is also where the beautiful BasĂlica Menor Nuestra Señora de los Ăngeles (Basilica of Saint Francis) is located. Unfortunately, it was already closed when I arrived.
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After a long and wonderful day exploring La Paz, it was time for dinner. Since it was already dark and I wanted something quick, I opted for fast food. Thankfully, rice is a staple in South America. One less thing to worry about đ.
As I walked back to my hostel, I heard the beat of drums and the sound of trumpets. There was some sort of parade, possibly a political campaign. Lolitas dressed in hues of blue waved flags and danced gracefully through the streets. Fireworks lit up the sky. I watched them pass before calling it a night.Â
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The following day, I was set to head to Cusco. I had done my research to convince myself that I wanted convenience, especially since I planned to stop at Copacabana, a Bolivian town on Lake Titicaca (not to be confused with the one in Brazil). While I didn’t mind taking local buses, I was short on time. DIYing this route definitely wouldnât cut it. So, I booked with Bolivia Hop. Itâs like a typical City Hop-on Hop-off bus, but this oneâs for long distances. Itâs country-hopping, not just in one city.
I woke up early. The bus picked me up around 7am. As soon as we pulled away, I had no memory of what followed. I must’ve fallen into a deep sleep lol. The next thing I knew, we had to get off the bus to cross the strait of Tiquina. We were a bit cramped on the ferry, with two folks standing as no more seats were available. We watched our bus carefully board the narrow barge alongside another vehicle. This transfer took about 15 mins.
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We reached Copacabana at noon. We were given time to wander and have lunch. It is a small charming town that offers breathtaking views of the lake that looks like a sea! Itâs massive. Well, itâs one of the largest lakes in South America. I walked along a street lined with colorful shops. Further up is the striking white Cathedral of Our Lady of Copacabana, the patron saint of Bolivia. It features a Spanish Colonial architectural style. Afraid to miss lunch and the next activity, I decided not to go inside and headed back. I stopped at a restaurant which I also have no memory of, probably because the food wasnât that good.
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I booked an add-on with Bolivia Hop â a 4 hour tour to Isla Del Sol (Island of the Sun). They made all the arrangements, all I had to do was show up at the scheduled time. The boat had a second deck, and I was lucky enough to secure a seat, allowing me to soak up the views of the island. There was a gull chasing us, likely looking for some chippies lol.
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The moment we disembarked at the port, we started hiking right away lol. There are marked trailsâ hard to get lost, even for someone as geographically challenged as me. But I didn’t want to risk it. I didn’t want to end up on the wrong side of the island and miss the ferry. So I memorized the people from the bus and kept my eyes glued to them. The island is hilly and rocky, no paved roads for motor vehicles. There are many ruins from the Incan Civilization scattered throughout the island. Isla Del Sol is considered sacred in Inca Mythology, as they believed it to be the birthplace of the Sun.
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At approximately 3,812 m above sea level, you get a panoramic view of Lake Titicaca and the Andes mountains. It was blue everywhere, so calm and peaceful. I let go of the people I was following, stopped for a while, sat on a rock, and enjoyed the moment.Â
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We descended to the southern part of the island, passing Yumani village on our way to the port. Kids played on the grass, llamas ran around, and locals traversed up and down, with donkeys helping them with their goods. Feeling tired, I went to sit on the lower deck of the boat, as the ride took 1.5 hours to reach Copacabana, where our bus was waiting.
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Shortly after we departed, was the Bolivia/Peru border crossing. Another convenient thing about Bolivia Hop was I didn’t have to worry about that ordeal. They told us exactly what to do, took us there, and waited for us on the other side. It was seamless and uneventful. I only remember walking to the border and filling out some forms, so not much to say here lol.
And just like that, I was now at my final destination – back in Peru.
About 30 mins later, we had to stop again, this time for dinner. My seatmate and I went together. We ordered our food which came with Pisco Sour, Peruâs national cocktail! Since I don’t drink alcohol (well, I could, but only a little), I offered my drink to her. Then I thought, maybe I should try, one sip wouldn’t hurt, but in that split second, before I knew it, she had already finished my drink. I never got to try Pisco Sour on this trip lol.
Around 10pm, we continued our journey towards Cusco.
Besides the positive things I already mentioned about Bolivia Hop, did I say the bus was comfortable and clean, and the guide was friendly? #notsponsored lol. I just highly recommend them!
Thank You Bolivia for being nice to me! One of the places that I’ll go back to in a heartbeat! đ
